HomeFrameworksGAIT
Financial · Accumulation
GAIT
Goals · Appetite for Risk · Interest · Type

Four honest questions that determine everything about how you should invest.

Most investors start with what to buy. That's the wrong starting point. GAIT is a self-assessment framework that establishes who you are as an investor before you make a single investment decision. Your goals, your genuine risk tolerance, your available time and interest, and your investor type — these four answers determine your strategy, your vehicle, and your entire approach. Get them wrong and everything downstream is built on the wrong foundation.

The four questions
G
GoalsWhat are you investing for?
A
Appetite for riskHow much volatility can you sit with?
I
InterestHow much time will you realistically spend?
T
TypeInvestor or speculator?
G
Goals

What are you investing for, and over what timeframe? This drives every subsequent decision. A 12-month house deposit demands capital preservation and liquidity. A 25-year retirement portfolio can tolerate significant short-term volatility in exchange for higher long-term growth. Completely different strategies, completely different vehicles.

Be specific. "I want to grow my wealth" is not a goal. "I want to generate enough passive income to retire comfortably at 55, with a minimum annual drawdown of $X" is a goal. Clearly defined goals are one of the most effective defences against emotional decision-making during market downturns.

The test: Can you write your investment goal in one sentence with a specific outcome and a specific timeframe? If not, keep working on it before you invest anything.
A
Appetite for risk

Most people significantly overestimate their risk tolerance when markets are rising. The real test is how you respond when your portfolio drops 20% in a week. Many investors who describe themselves as high-risk sell everything at precisely that moment — the worst possible time.

Equity prices move for company-specific reasons only around 20% of the time. The other 80% reflects macro conditions — trade disputes, employment data, sentiment — that have no bearing on the quality of what you own. A macro-driven dip in a well-researched position is rarely a reason to sell. It's often a reason to buy more.

The honest question: If your portfolio dropped 30% tomorrow, would you hold — or would you sell? Answer that truthfully before deciding your risk profile.
I
Interest

The most underestimated question. The issue isn't whether you intend to follow markets and research your portfolio — it's whether you will realistically do it week after week, month after month. Good intentions don't substitute for actual engagement.

If the honest answer is low interest or limited time, that's fine — but it should send you toward broad passive ETFs rather than individual stock selection or niche plays. A simple ETF portfolio held patiently will outperform most actively managed alternatives over time. The key word is honestly.

The rule: Match your investment vehicle to your real interest level, not your aspirational one. There's no shame in a simple passive approach — it's usually the smarter one.
T
Type

Are you a long-term value investor or a short-term speculator? Both are legitimate — but they require completely different mindsets, tools, and temperaments. Attempting both simultaneously is a reliable path to mediocre results in both directions.

In 1984, trader Richard Dennis taught 14 people to trade using a strict mechanical system. What determined success wasn't intelligence or market knowledge — it was the ability to follow the rules without deviation. The participants who stuck to the rules made money. Those who didn't, didn't. It sounds simple. It demonstrably wasn't.

For the record: My own answers are G = Retirement, A = Medium to High, I = High with time available, T = Long-Term Value. Everything in my portfolio since 2009 has followed from those four answers.

Read before you invest — in anything

This principle sits above asset class and vehicle choices. It applies whether you're considering equities, property, bonds, crypto, or any other investment. If you want to invest in something, you first have to understand it. Otherwise you're not investing — you're gambling with extra steps and a more convincing story.

This means reading. A lot. Across different authors, different viewpoints, different asset classes. The investors who do consistently well over time are almost universally voracious readers. Not because reading gives you stock tips — it doesn't — but because broad, sustained reading builds the judgement and context that good investment decisions require. You can't shortcut it. Don't try.

“If you want to invest in anything, you have to understand it first. Otherwise you're just gambling with extra steps.”

— Mike Roberts

Starting points
Book A Random Walk Down Wall Street — B.G. Malkiel. The one book to start with.
Free Warren Buffett's Chairman's Letters — 50+ years, free online. Invaluable.
Doc How to Win the Loser's Game — free documentary on active vs passive investing.
Book Poor Charlie's Almanack — Charlie Munger on life and investing.
Site Investopedia — the best free reference for terms and concepts.

The same principle applies to property, crypto, or any other asset class. Most people who lose money in property do so not because property is a bad investment, but because they didn't understand what they were buying, at what price, under what conditions. The asset class is almost irrelevant. The discipline of understanding before committing is universal. Read widely, synthesise your own view over time, and never invest in something you can't explain clearly to someone else.

Why equities?

The focus of this framework is equity markets, primarily the United States. That's not the only path to wealth — but it is the one with the strongest long-term evidence base, the highest liquidity, and the lowest barrier to entry. Here's the case.

Long-term compounding

The US equity market has returned an average of approximately 10% per annum over the past century. Over 20–30 year horizons, the compounding effect of those returns is genuinely dramatic. Time in the market consistently matters more than timing the market.

Liquidity

Unlike property — the asset class most NZ investors default to because it's familiar — equities are highly liquid. A fully invested equity portfolio can be converted to cash within 24–48 hours. Property can take months, often at the worst possible moment.

Accessibility

You can begin investing in US equities with any dollar amount. No minimum, no deposit requirement, no stamp duty, no maintenance costs. The barrier to entry is low; the ceiling is unlimited. You own a share of real productive businesses.

On crypto and speculation: Currencies — including digital ones — have no intrinsic value. No underlying productive asset, no income stream, no claim on anything real. That makes crypto speculation, not investment. There's nothing wrong with speculation if you know that's what you're doing — but it's a different game with different rules and has no place in a long-term wealth-building framework.

ETFs over individual stocks

Once you've decided equities are the right asset class, the next question is how to invest in them. The choice is broadly between individual stock selection and passive index funds — specifically Exchange Traded Funds. For most retail investors, the evidence strongly favours ETFs. This is not a close call.

Active management / individual stocks
  • Requires significant ongoing research time and genuine expertise
  • Actively managed funds charge 0.8–1.5% per annum in fees
  • Majority of professional fund managers fail to beat their benchmark index over 10+ years once fees are deducted
  • Concentration risk: poor individual stock picks can materially damage returns
  • Emotional discipline required at all times — harder than it sounds
Passive ETFs
  • +Minimal time required — annual rebalancing is sufficient for most portfolios
  • +Expense ratios as low as 0.03% per annum — a fraction of active fund fees
  • +Outperform the majority of actively managed funds over rolling 10-year periods
  • +Instant diversification across hundreds or thousands of holdings
  • +Transparent — you know exactly what you own every day
1.2%
Typical active fund fee
vs
0.03%
VTI expense ratio

On a $200,000 portfolio, that fee difference costs you $2,340 every year — before performance is even considered. Over 20 years with compounding, the gap becomes extraordinary. The fee differential alone is a compelling reason to choose passive.

Portfolio construction

Portfolio construction should follow directly from your GAIT answers. The complexity of your portfolio should match your available time and genuine interest. A simple, globally diversified portfolio maintained with annual rebalancing will outperform most actively managed alternatives — and is entirely appropriate for the majority of long-term investors. Start simple. Add complexity only when your GAIT profile genuinely supports it.

VTI
Vanguard Total Stock Market
2,500+ US stocks · 0.03% p.a.
VEU
Vanguard FTSE All-World ex-US
Large caps outside the US
BND
Vanguard Total Bond Market
Broad US bond market
BNDX
Vanguard Total Bond ex-US
Global bonds ex-US
A simple four-ETF model portfolio
VTI Vanguard Total Stock Market (US equities) 33%
VEU Vanguard FTSE All-World ex-US (global equities) 33%
BND Vanguard Total Bond Market (US bonds) 16%
BNDX Vanguard Total Bond Market ex-US (global bonds) 16%
Avoid: leveraged and inverse ETFs

Designed for active daily trading. They decay in value over time through volatility drag and are not long-term vehicles. The returns look extraordinary on paper. They're not what they appear.

Avoid: reactive selling

Selling in response to short-term market declines is the single most destructive investor behaviour. If your thesis hasn't changed, neither should your position. Price is not the same as value.

Before you start
Sort the debt first. Then KiwiSaver. Then invest.

If you're carrying high-interest consumer debt — credit card balances at 20%+ — while trying to build an investment portfolio, the maths doesn't work in your favour. Pay down high-interest debt first. The one genuine exception is KiwiSaver: employer matching and the government co-contribution make it the best default investment available to New Zealanders, regardless of other financial commitments. Get that in place before anything else.

Where to start

01

Answer all four questions in writingDon't do this in your head. Write the answers down. Come back in 24 hours. Consistent answers across sessions indicate genuine self-knowledge.

02

Read before you commit capitalAt minimum, watch How to Win the Loser's Game and read A Random Walk Down Wall Street. Understanding what you're investing in — and why — is not optional.

03

Revisit GAIT annuallyLife changes and so do the answers. Marriage, children, job changes, inheritance — review your GAIT profile at least once a year and adjust strategy only when the answers genuinely change.

Read the full article →